Button Front Vest Sewing Pattern – Free PDF #SC1012

The Margaux is a fitted sleeveless vest with a deep scoop neckline, a row of small buttons down the center front and a softly curved hem that ends just below the waist. Darts at the bust, waist and back neck shape it close to the body, so it looks tailored on its own with jeans or high-waisted trousers, and just as good layered over a fine shirt.

This free button front vest sewing pattern is made for medium-weight woven fabrics with some body, like linen, cotton twill, gingham or a light wool suiting. It is a quick sew with only four pattern pieces: the back is cut in one piece with no center back seam, a single facing finishes the neckline and the front edges in one go, and the armholes get a neat bias facing. If you have sewn a few simple tops and want to try darts and buttonholes, this is a great next project.

→ Jump to the free download

1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance · 2 cm (3/4″) hem allowance included

Design details and fit of the Margaux vest

The Margaux is a close-fitting vest with a deep U-shaped scoop neckline and a center front button opening. On the front, a bust dart and a long waist dart shape it on each side; on the back, two waist darts and two small neck darts keep it close to the body. The back is cut in one piece with no seam, and the hem curves gently down towards the center front.

It has about 5.5 cm (2 1/8″) of ease at the bust in size 8, so it sits snugly without pulling at the buttons. The finished length is about 63 cm (24 7/8″) at the center back and about 67 cm (26 3/8″) at the front, from the shoulder at the neck to the hem, so it ends just below the waist. It is drafted for a height of 168 cm (5′6″).

Difficulty and what to know before you start

The pattern is rated confident beginner. There are no sleeves, no lining and no zipper, so the sewing is quick. The two steps to read carefully before you start are the facing corners at the hem (step 11) and the buttonholes (step 12). Make one test buttonhole on a scrap with facing and interfacing, exactly like on the vest.

Tools you will want: a sewing machine with a buttonhole foot, an overlocker or a zigzag stitch to finish the edges, an iron with a press cloth, a tailor’s ham or a rolled towel for the darts, pins, and chalk or tracing paper to mark the darts.

Sizing guide

Drafted for a height of 168 cm (5′6″). The vest is close-fitting, so choose your size by your bust measurement and compare it with the body measurements below, not with your ready-to-wear size. If your waist falls in another size, blend between the two sizes at the side seams. Not sure? Read how to choose your size.

Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

cm	00	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Bust	80	82.5	85	87.8	90.2	92.8	95.2	99.2	104.2	109.2	114.2	119.2	124.2
Waist	63.5	66	68.8	71.2	73.8	76.2	78.8	82.8	87.5	93.2	99	104.8	110.5
Hips	87.8	90.2	92.8	95.2	98	100.2	102.8	106.5	111	115.5	120.8	125.8	130.8

Finished garment measurements

cm	00	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22
Bust	85.5	88	90.5	93.2	95.8	98.2	100.8	104.8	109.9	115	120.1	125.2	130.3
Waist	67.7	70.2	72.9	75.4	78	80.5	83.1	87.2	92	97.9	103.7	109.6	115.5
Hip	93.2	95.8	98.7	101.9	105.5	108.9	112	116.2	120.9	126.4	131.8	137.5	142.7
Back length	61.5	61.9	62.7	63	63.2	63.3	63.6	63.7	64.2	64.8	65.7	66.6	67.3
Front length	64.4	65.1	66.1	66.6	67.1	67.8	68.4	68.8	70.2	71.4	72.8	74.6	75.9

Bust, waist and hip are full circumferences, measured with the vest buttoned. Back length is measured at center back; front length from the high point of the shoulder (at the neck) to the hem. Compare them with a vest or top that fits you well.

Fabric requirements

cm	US 00–6	US 8–14	US 16–22
Main fabric, 150 cm wide	100	150	180
Main fabric, 115 cm wide	150	170	180
Interfacing, 90 cm wide	80	80	90
Bias tape (both armholes)	100	110	120
Buttons, 1 cm	6	6 (size 14: 7)	7

The largest size of each group was used, plus about 8 % for shrinkage and straightening and 10 cm for the bias strips. Fabrics with a nap or a one-way print may need a little more. Pre-wash your fabric before cutting.

Common fit adjustments

Length. To lengthen or shorten, cut across the Front, the Back and the Front neck facing at waist level, between the bust dart and the lower dart points. Spread or overlap the same amount on all three, then redraw the darts and side seams smoothly.

Between two sizes. Choose by your bust and blend to your waist or hip size along the side seams. See how to take your body measurements if you want to double-check.

Sewing notes

Choosing fabric for a fitted vest

A fitted vest needs a fabric that holds the shape of the darts and stays flat around the buttons. Linen and linen blends are perfect for a summer vest worn on its own, cotton twill and drill give a crisp everyday version, and gabardine or a light wool suiting turns it into a tailored waistcoat to wear with matching trousers.

Gingham and other checks look lovely on this shape, as in our photos, but they take a little more planning: cut the two fronts so the checks match at the center front, and line up the checks across the side seams at the hem. Cut each front separately, single layer, using the first one as a guide for the second.

Sewing steps

Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8″) unless stated. Sew right sides together and press after every step.

1. Prepare the pieces. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of both front neck facings (3) and the back neck facing (4), and let them cool flat. Check that every marking is transferred: darts, notches, buttons, buttonholes and center front. Staystitch the necklines of the Front and Back 8 mm (5/16″) from the edge, sewing from the shoulder towards the center, so the deep curve does not stretch.
2. Sew the front darts. Fold each bust dart right sides together, matching the lines and circles, and stitch from the side edge to the point, sewing the last 1 cm very close to the fold. Tie the threads instead of backstitching. Fold each long waist dart along its center and stitch from the upper point to the widest circles and on to the lower point in one smooth curve. Clip the waist dart fold at its widest part, to 3 mm from the stitching. Press the bust darts down and the waist darts towards the center front, over a ham.
3. Sew the back darts. Stitch the two neck darts from the neckline edge to the point and tie the threads. Sew the two waist darts like the front ones, from point to point, and clip them at the widest part. Press all back darts towards the center back.
4. Sew the shoulder seams. Place the Fronts on the Back, right sides together, and stitch the shoulders. Finish the allowances separately and press open.
5. Make the facing unit. Join the two front neck facings to the back neck facing at the shoulders, right sides together, and press the seams open. Finish the outer (unnotched) edge of the whole facing with an overlocker or zigzag. Do not finish the edge that will be sewn to the vest.
6. Attach the facing. Lay the vest right side up and place the facing on top, right side down, matching the shoulder seams, the center back notches and the notches along the front edges. Stitch in one continuous seam from the lower end of one front facing, up the front edge, around the neckline and down to the lower end of the other one, leaving the facing ends free below the hem fold line. Trim the facing allowance to 5 mm and the vest allowance to 7 mm, and clip the neckline curve every 1 to 1.5 cm. Press the allowances towards the facing and understitch 2 to 3 mm from the seam as far as you can, stopping about 5 cm (2″) above the hem. Turn the facing to the inside and press, rolling the seam slightly inwards.
7. Secure the facing. At each shoulder, match the facing seam to the vest shoulder seam and tack the allowances together by hand, or stitch in the ditch of the shoulder seam from the right side. This stops the facing rolling out at the neckline.
8. Attach the bias on the armholes. Cut two bias strips 3.5 cm (1 3/8″) wide, a little longer than the armhole, and press one long edge 6 mm (1/4″) to the wrong side (or unfold one edge of ready-made bias tape). Shape each strip into a curve with the iron. With the side seams still open, pin the unpressed edge to the armhole, right sides together, and stitch 1 cm from the edge. Trim to 5 mm, clip the curve, press the strip away from the vest and understitch it 2 to 3 mm from the seam.
9. Sew the side seams. Unfold the ends of the bias strips so they lie flat. Place the Front on the Back at the sides, right sides together, matching the armhole seams and side notches, and stitch from the end of the bias strip, across the armhole seam and down to the hem in one line. Finish the allowances separately and press open, including the short seam across the bias.
10. Finish the armholes. Turn the bias strip completely to the inside along the understitching so none of it shows from the right side. Press, pin and stitch close to the inner folded edge from the wrong side, or slipstitch it by hand for an invisible finish.
11. Hem and facing corners. At the bottom of each front, fold the facing back to the outside along the front edge, right sides together, and stitch across it 1 cm from its lower edge, exactly on the hem fold line. Trim the corner, turn the facing to the inside, push the corner out and press. Between the facings, machine-baste 6 mm (1/4″) from the lower edge, turn the edge under 6 mm, then turn up along the hem fold line for a 2 cm (3/4″) hem, easing the curves with the basting thread. Stitch close to the inner fold and catchstitch the lower edge of each facing to the hem by hand.
12. Buttonholes and buttons. Make horizontal buttonholes 1.2 cm (1/2″) long on the right front (as worn), at the marked positions: 6 for sizes 00–12, 7 for sizes 14–22. Start each one 3 mm (1/8″) past the center front line towards the front edge. Open them with a seam ripper, a pin across the end as a stopper. Lap the right front over the left, matching the center fronts, mark the buttons through the buttonholes and sew them on with a small thread shank.
13. Final press. Press the whole vest from the wrong side with a press cloth, pressing the darts over a ham so they stay rounded. Check that the facing and armhole edges roll slightly to the inside.

Tips and common mistakes

Tie the dart points, do not backstitch. Backstitching at the point makes a little bump that shows from the right side. Sew off the fold and knot the threads instead.

Do not skip the staystitching. The deep scoop neckline is cut partly on the bias and stretches easily. Staystitch it as soon as the pieces are cut.

Clip the neckline before you turn the facing. Without clips, the curve pulls and the facing will not lie flat. Clip close to the stitching, but never through it.

Test the buttonholes. Make one test buttonhole through fabric, interfacing and facing, exactly as on the vest, before you sew the real ones.

Variations to try

Two-piece set. Sew the vest and a pair of trousers or a skirt from the same fabric for a matching suit look.

Self-fabric bias. Cut the armhole bias from your main fabric, or from a contrast print for a fun surprise inside.

Statement buttons. Wooden, horn, pearl or brass buttons change the whole look of the vest with no change to the pattern.

How to style the Margaux vest

Casual: on its own with straight or wide-leg jeans, as in our photos.

Smart: with high-waisted wide-leg trousers, or layered over a fine white shirt.

Make a matching set: pair it with our wide leg pants sewing pattern in the same fabric.

Care

Follow the care instructions of your fabric and pre-wash it the same way before cutting. Close the buttons and turn the vest inside out before washing, and press it from the wrong side with a press cloth.

Questions

Is seam allowance included?

Yes: 1 cm (3/8″) on all edges and a 2 cm (3/4″) hem allowance on the lower edge of the Front and Back.

Which paper sizes are included?

The free download comes in A4 and US Letter, with one file per size from 00 to 22.

Which size should I choose?

Choose by your bust measurement using the body measurement table, not your ready-to-wear size. If your waist is in another size, blend between the two sizes at the side seams.

What fabric is best for a fitted vest?

A medium-weight woven with some body: linen or a linen blend, cotton twill or drill, gingham, gabardine or light wool suiting. Stretch fabrics and very soft, drapey fabrics are not suitable.

How much fabric do I need?

About 1.0 to 1.8 m of 150 cm wide fabric, or 1.5 to 1.8 m of 115 cm wide fabric, plus 0.8 to 0.9 m of fusible interfacing, depending on your size.

How many buttons does the vest need?

Six buttons of 1 cm (3/8″) for sizes 00 to 12, and seven for sizes 14 to 22.

Is the vest lined?

No. The neckline and front edges are finished with an interfaced facing and the armholes with a bias facing, so the vest stays light and quick to sew.

Is this vest good for beginners?

It is rated confident beginner. If you have sewn a simple top before, you can make it by following the steps in order; take your time at the facing corners and test your buttonholes first.

Happy sewing!