A zipper looks like the hardest part of a garment, but it is only two straight seams sewn with the right foot. Once you have done one, you will never fear it again. This guide shows you how to sew a zipper the two ways beginners need most: an invisible zipper for dresses and skirts, and a regular centred zipper for skirts, pants and jackets.
Time 20 to 40 min
Level Beginner to intermediate
For Dresses, skirts, pants, jackets
Tools Zipper foot, invisible zipper foot, pins or clips
1. Choose the right zipper
| Zipper | What it looks like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Invisible (concealed) | Teeth hidden on the back. Only the pull shows on the seam. | Dresses, skirts, fitted tops |
| Regular (closed-end) | Visible teeth, sewn under a centred or lapped opening | Skirts, pants, bags, cushions |
| Separating (open-end) | Comes apart completely at the bottom | Jackets, coats, hoodies |
| Metal (jeans) | Strong metal teeth | Jeans, workwear, heavy fabrics |
Use the length your pattern gives. For an invisible zipper, buy one 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2″) longer than the opening: the part below the opening stays inside the seam. A plastic zipper that is too long can be shortened by sewing a few hand stitches across the teeth and cutting below them.
2. Prepare the opening
- Interface the seam allowance along the opening with a strip of light fusible interfacing about 2 cm (¾″) wide. It stops the fabric from rippling. See how to use fusible interfacing.
- Finish the raw edges of the two seam allowances with an overlocker or a zigzag before you start, because they are hard to reach later.
- Mark the bottom of the opening on both pieces with a notch or chalk.
- Press the zipper with a cool iron. For an invisible zipper, unroll the coils and press them flat from the back, so you can stitch close to them.
3. How to sew an invisible zipper
- Leave the seam open. With an invisible zipper, the zipper goes in first and the seam below is sewn afterwards.
- Open the zipper and place one side face down on the right side of the left piece, with the coil exactly on the seamline and the tape towards the raw edge. Pin or clip.
- Fit the invisible zipper foot so the coil runs in its groove. Sew from the top down to the bottom mark, as close to the coil as the foot allows. Backstitch.
- Close the zipper and check where it meets the other piece. Mark the waist seam or any cross seam on the tape so both sides line up.
- Open the zipper again and sew the second side the same way, on the right piece.
- Close the seam below the zipper. Close the zipper, switch to a regular zipper foot and sew the rest of the seam, starting a few millimetres above and slightly to the side of your last stitches. The tail of the zipper is pushed out of the way.
- Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowances at the bottom, and press from the wrong side with a press cloth.
4. How to sew a regular centred zipper
- Sew the seam with a normal stitch up to the bottom mark and backstitch. From there to the top, sew with the longest stitch (basting).
- Press the seam open.
- Place the zipper face down on the seam allowances, teeth exactly on the seam, and pin or tape it in place from the wrong side.
- Turn to the right side and fit the zipper foot. Topstitch down one side about 6 mm (¼″) from the seam, pivot at the bottom, stitch across below the zipper stop, pivot and sew up the other side.
- Move the pull out of the way when you reach it: stop with the needle down, lift the foot, slide the pull past the needle, then carry on.
- Unpick the basting over the zipper and press.
Jacket with a separating zipper? The method is the same on each front edge: place the zipper face down along the edge, stitch, then turn the facing to the inside and topstitch. Follow your pattern for the exact order.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | How to fix it |
|---|---|
| Invisible zipper shows | Stitch closer to the coil, and press the coils flat before sewing. |
| Waist seams do not line up | Mark the cross seam on the zipper tape after sewing the first side, and match it on the second. |
| Fabric ripples beside the zipper | Interface the seam allowances, and do not stretch the fabric while sewing. |
| Pucker or bubble at the bottom | Start the seam below the zipper slightly above and to the side of the last stitch, not on the same spot. |
| Wobbly topstitching | Use a piece of tape on the right side as a guide, and move the pull out of the way instead of sewing around it. |
How to practise
Sew a test zipper on two scraps of your fabric first. A skirt is the easiest place for your first invisible zipper, and a fitted dress comes next. Browse our free skirt patterns, dress patterns and jacket patterns to put it into practice.
Questions
Can I sew an invisible zipper with a regular zipper foot?
Yes, but it is harder to stitch close enough to the coil, so the zipper may show a little. An invisible zipper foot is inexpensive and makes it much easier.
How long should my zipper be?
Use the length in the pattern. For an invisible zipper, buy it 2 to 5 cm (1 to 2 in) longer than the opening, because the bottom part stays below the opening.
Do I sew the zipper before or after the seam?
For an invisible zipper, sew the zipper first and the seam below it afterwards. For a regular centred zipper, sew and baste the seam first, then sew the zipper over it.
Can I shorten a zipper?
Yes, plastic and coil zippers. Sew a few tight hand stitches across the teeth at the new length and cut 2 cm below. Metal zippers need the teeth removed with pliers.
Zipper in? Explore more sewing tutorials.