Learning how to sew stretch fabrics is easier than most beginners think. Jersey, ribbing, ponte and cotton-spandex are comfortable, forgiving to fit and do not fray. They just need the right needle, the right stitch and a gentle hand. This guide shows you the setup that works on a normal home sewing machine, with or without an overlocker.
Time 10 min read
Level Beginner
For Jersey, ponte, ribbing, spandex
Tools Stretch needle, polyester thread
1. Know your stretch
Stretch fabrics are not all the same. 2-way stretch fabrics stretch in one direction only, usually across the width. 4-way stretch fabrics stretch across and along. Cotton jersey has a little stretch and little recovery, while a fabric with spandex (elastane, lycra) springs back. Check what your pattern asks for, because the pattern is drafted for a certain amount of stretch.
Stretch test: fold the fabric and mark 10 cm (4″) on it. Pull it gently, without forcing, along the marked line. If it stretches to about 12.5 cm (5″), it has roughly 25 % stretch. About 15 cm (6″) is roughly 50 % stretch. If your pattern lists a minimum stretch, your fabric should reach it.
2. Choose the right needle and thread
| Fabric | Needle | Thread |
|---|---|---|
| Light to medium jersey | Stretch or ballpoint 75/11 to 80/12 | All-purpose polyester |
| Medium ponte, sweatshirt knit | Stretch or ballpoint 90/14 | All-purpose polyester |
| Spandex, swimwear, activewear | Stretch 75/11 or special swim needle | Polyester, or stretch thread in the bobbin |
A ballpoint or stretch needle has a rounded tip that slides between the knit loops instead of cutting them. A sharp universal needle can cut threads and leave small holes or skipped stitches. Polyester thread has a little give, so seams are less likely to snap than with cotton thread.
3. Pick a stretch stitch
- Overlocker (serger): the best option, because it sews, trims and finishes the edge in one pass and stretches well.
- Stretch stitch on a home machine: look for the lightning-bolt stitch or a stitch marked for knits.
- Narrow zigzag: works on every machine. Set the width to about 1 to 1.5 mm and the length to 2.5 to 3 mm.
- Straight stitch: only on seams that do not stretch, such as shoulder seams stabilized with stay tape.
4. Set up your machine
- Use a walking (even feed) foot if you have one. It feeds the top and bottom layers together, so the seam does not stretch or ripple.
- Reduce the presser foot pressure a little if your machine allows it, so the foot does not stretch the fabric as it sews.
- Do not pull or push the fabric. Guide it lightly and let the feed dogs do the work.
- Sew a test seam on a double layer of scrap fabric, then stretch it. If the stitches pop, loosen the tension slightly or lengthen the stitch.
5. Cut knits accurately
Knits shift and slide, so cut them with care. Let the fabric rest flat for a few hours after unfolding, and do not let it hang off the table while you cut. Cut a single layer if you can, and use pattern weights and a rotary cutter, or sharp scissors. Mark the top of each piece, because knits with a nap or a stripe have a direction. If you are new to grain and layouts, read how to choose fabric for sewing patterns.
6. Finish necklines, hems and seams
| Where | What to do |
|---|---|
| Shoulder seams | Sew a strip of clear elastic or stay tape into the seam, so the shoulders do not stretch out. |
| Necklines and armholes | Use a narrow band, a facing or a folded band cut shorter than the opening so it sits flat. Follow your pattern. |
| Hems | Use a twin needle, a zigzag or a coverstitch. A straight stitch will pop when the hem stretches. |
| Waistbands | Sew elastic to the band, or use a fabric band with the amount of negative ease your pattern gives. |
| Pressing | Use a low heat and a press cloth, and press with an up and down motion. Do not drag the iron, which stretches the fabric. |
Choosing your size: knit patterns are often drafted with negative ease, so the garment is smaller than your body and stretches to fit. See how to choose your sewing pattern size for how to read ease.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | How to fix it |
|---|---|
| Wavy, stretched seams | Lower the presser foot pressure, use a walking foot, and stop pulling the fabric through. |
| Skipped stitches | Change to a new stretch or ballpoint needle, and try a slightly larger size. |
| Seam pops when you stretch it | Use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag, and a longer stitch length. |
| Fabric gets pulled into the machine | Start with a few stitches on a scrap, or place tissue paper under the fabric and tear it away afterwards. |
| Hem ripples or tunnels | Use a twin needle with a lighter tension, or a zigzag, and press the hem gently first. |
| Neckline gapes | Cut the band shorter, or add clear elastic or stay tape before you sew the band. |
Free patterns to try with stretch fabric
Start with our high waisted biker shorts sewing pattern, which is made for a stretch knit with 4-way stretch. When you are ready for more, browse all our free sewing patterns.
Questions
Can I sew knits without an overlocker?
Yes. A normal home machine with a stretch needle, a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag, and polyester thread sews knits well. An overlocker is faster and gives a neat finish, but it is not required.
Do I need to pre-wash stretch fabric?
Yes. Wash and dry it the way you will care for the finished garment, because knits can shrink and change how much they stretch.
Which stitch is best for sewing stretch fabric?
An overlocker stitch is best. On a home machine, use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag with a length of 2.5 to 3 mm. A plain straight stitch snaps when the seam stretches.
Why is my stretch fabric wavy when I sew it?
The fabric is being stretched as it goes through the machine. Lower the presser foot pressure, use a walking foot and let the machine feed the fabric without pulling.
Ready to sew? Print your pattern and start with a small project.