One Shoulder Midi Dress Sewing Pattern – Free PDF

This free one shoulder dress sewing pattern makes an elegant midi dress for summer weddings, garden parties and warm evenings. A clean asymmetric bodice, shaped with darts, meets a full, swingy skirt at the natural waist and falls to mid-calf.

The pattern is drafted for light to medium-weight woven fabrics with some drape: cotton sateen, crepe, viscose, a linen-viscose blend or a light cotton twill. The bodice has two bust darts and two waist darts at the front and two waist darts at the back, so it sits close without any stretch. A hidden pocket sits in the right side seam, and an invisible zip in the left side seam keeps the front line clean. The neckline is finished with bias tape turned to the inside and the armhole with an interfaced facing, so there is no lining to sew. In our photos we made it in a deep burgundy crepe.

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1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance · 2 cm (3/4″) hem included

Printable sewing tutorial

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Get the full printable tutorial for the One Shoulder Midi Dress: detailed step-by-step sewing instructions with clear illustrations, line sketches, a sizing guide and the list of materials you need.

• Illustrated diagrams for every step, from the bodice darts to the invisible zip and bias-finished neckline
• Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts per size
• Video guides for the key techniques, with links and QR codes
• Printable PDF, instant download

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Design details and fit of the one shoulder dress

• Asymmetric one-shoulder neckline, finished with bias tape turned to the inside
• Fitted bodice: 2 bust darts and 2 waist darts at the front, 2 waist darts at the back
• Armhole finished with an interfaced facing
• Full flared skirt cut in two pieces, joined at the natural waist
• In-seam pocket in the right side seam
• Invisible zip in the left side seam
• Midi length, about 116 cm (45 3/4″) from the shoulder in size 8

The pattern is drafted for a height of 168 cm (5′6″). The bodice is close-fitting, with about 5–6 cm (2–2 1/4″) of ease at the bust, while the skirt is very full: the hem measures almost 3 m around in size 8, so the dress swings beautifully when you move and the hips never need to match your size.

Sizing guide

Choose your size by your bust and waist measurements in the table below. The skirt is full, so you can ignore the hip measurement. Between two sizes, take the larger one at the bust. Not sure? Read how to choose your size.

Letter sizes: 00 = XXS · 0/2 = XS · 4/6 = S · 8/10 = M · 12/14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = 2XL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

Finished garment measurements

Length is measured at the front, from the shoulder point at the neck to the hem. Skirt = waist seam to hem at the centre. Hem width is the full circumference. Seam allowances excluded.

Fabric and notions

Fabric amounts were calculated by laying out every piece of the largest size in each group on a single layer, plus about 8 % for shrinkage and straightening. The bias strip for the neckline can be cut from the leftovers between the skirt pieces. Add extra for prints that need matching.

Common fit adjustments

Length. Lengthen or shorten the bodice evenly at the waist seam line, and the skirt evenly along the hem curve, keeping its shape.

Bust and waist. Choose by the bust, then take in or let out the side seams at the waist when you try on the bodice before setting the zip.

Sewing notes

Choosing fabric for a one shoulder dress

Crepe is the most forgiving choice: it presses well for the darts, drapes softly through the flared skirt and hides small imperfections, which is why we used it for the burgundy version in our photos. Cotton sateen gives a slightly crisper skirt with a soft sheen, perfect for a summer wedding, while viscose or a linen-viscose blend makes a cool, airy dress for hot days.

Avoid stretch knits, because the pattern is drafted for non-stretch wovens, and very stiff fabrics that make the full skirt stand out. Large one-way prints need care, since the skirt pieces are cut with the grainline across the piece: lay out all the pieces before cutting.

Sewing steps

Seam allowance 1 cm (3/8″) unless stated otherwise. Sew with right sides together and press each seam as you go.

1. Front darts. Stitch the two bust darts and two waist darts on the front from the wide end to the point and knot the thread tails. Press the bust darts down and the waist darts toward the centre, then staystitch the neckline 6 mm from the edge.
2. Back darts. Stitch the two waist darts on the back, press them toward the centre and staystitch the back neckline.
3. Shoulder. Join the front and back at the shoulder, finish the allowances separately and press open.
4. Right side seam. Stitch the side seam under the shoulder, matching the underarm points. Leave the left side open for the zip and finish its allowances now.
5. Armhole facing. Fuse the interfacing, join the facing pieces, sew the facing to the armhole, clip and understitch, then turn it inside and tack it at the seams.
6. Pocket and skirt seams. Sew a pocket bag to the skirt front and the skirt back on the right side, understitch, then stitch the right side seam around the pocket. On the left side, stitch from the hem up to the zip mark.
7. Hem. Let the skirt hang for 24 hours if you can, then ease in the fullness with a basting thread, turn up the 2 cm hem and stitch.
8. Skirt to bodice. Pin the skirt to the bodice, matching the darts, centres and right side seam, stitch, then stitch again inside the allowance and overlock. The left side stays open.
9. Invisible zip. With an invisible zip foot, sew the zip to the front and then the back opening edges, keeping the waist seams level, and close the side seam below it.
10. Neckline. Sew the bias tape along the neckline from zip edge to zip edge, fold the tails over the zip tape, understitch, turn the tape fully inside and edgestitch.
11. Finishing. Knot and trim every thread tail and give the dress a final press on the wrong side with a press cloth.

Tips and common mistakes

Shoulder on the wrong side? Always cut the bodice pieces on a single layer, fabric right side up and pattern printed side up. Folding the fabric or flipping a piece mirrors the asymmetric neckline.

Gaping neckline. The one-shoulder edge runs on the bias: staystitch it as soon as the darts are done and never pull the bias tape tight while you sew it.

Zip across the waist seam. Baste the side seam first and check that the waist seams line up on both sides of the zip before you stitch it for good.

Uneven hem. A full flared skirt drops where it is cut off-grain. Letting it hang for a day before hemming gives a level hem.

How to style the one shoulder dress

Weddings and parties: strappy sandals, a small clutch and gold earrings that keep the shoulder line clean.

Day to evening: a fine belt at the waist seam and a cropped cardigan or denim jacket for cooler nights.

More dresses to sew: for another fitted bodice with a flared skirt, try our spaghetti strap dress sewing pattern, or the halter neck maxi dress sewing pattern for a full-length look.

Care

Wash as your fabric requires, and pre-wash it the same way before cutting. Close the zip before washing and iron on the wrong side.

Questions

Happy sewing!

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