Princess Seam Jacket Sewing Pattern – Free PDF

This princess seam jacket is the kind of tailored piece you reach for every day: curved seams from the armhole shape it at the front and back, a neat shirt collar frames the face, and six buttons close the front. Two patch pockets and buttoned vents at the sleeve hems give it a classic, polished look, and a full lining makes it slip on smoothly over a blouse or a fine knit.

This free princess seam jacket sewing pattern is drafted for medium-weight wovens that hold a shape, like wool flannel, tweed, cotton twill or corduroy, as in our photos with a contrast black collar. It is a lovely step up if you have already sewn a few garments: you will practise princess seams, patch pockets, a two-piece set-in sleeve with a vent, a collar caught between the jacket and its facings, and a full bag lining. Take your time, press after every seam, and the result will look truly tailored.

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1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance · 3 cm (1 1/8″) hem on the body and sleeves · 6 cm (2 3/8″) pocket top hem included

Printable sewing tutorial

Need help completing the project?

Get the full printable tutorial for the Princess Seam Lined Jacket: detailed step-by-step sewing instructions with clear illustrations, line sketches, a sizing guide and the list of materials you need.

• Illustrated diagrams for every step, from the collar to the full lining and sleeve vents
• Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts per size
• Video guides for the key techniques, with links and QR codes
• Printable PDF, instant download

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Design details and fit of the Princess Seam Jacket

• Armhole princess seams at the front and back, with a center back seam
• One-piece shirt collar, finished with full-length front facings and a back neck facing
• Six-button front closure
• Two patch pockets on the side fronts
• Two-piece set-in sleeves with a buttoned vent (3 buttons per sleeve) and room for 1 cm shoulder pads
• Full lining in the body and sleeves, with an ease pleat at the center back
• Hip-length, folded hem

The pattern is drafted for a height of 168 cm (5′6″). The jacket is fitted at the waist with comfortable ease at the bust and hips, so it closes easily over a blouse or a fine knit. Planning to wear it over a thick sweater, or sewing it in a thick coating wool? Choose one size up.

Sizing guide

Compare your bust, waist and hip measurements to the table below and choose by the largest one. Between two sizes? Take the larger one. Not sure? Read how to choose your size.

Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

Finished garment measurements

Waist, hips, hem and upper arm are full circumferences of the finished jacket. Back length is measured at the center back from the neck seam to the hem; sleeve length from the shoulder point to the hem.

Fabric and notions

Amounts are for a layout without a one-way nap. For corduroy, velvet or a large check, add about 30 cm.

Common fit adjustments

Length. Lengthen or shorten the body and sleeve pieces between the armhole and the hem, changing every matching piece (main fabric and lining) by the same amount.

Waist and hips. Choose by your largest measurement, then compare the others to the chart. The princess seams make it easy to take in or let out a little at the waist.

Sewing notes

Choosing fabric for a princess seam jacket

Wool flannel and tweed are the classic choices: they press beautifully, ease into the sleeve cap without puckers and keep the curved seams crisp. Corduroy, like our brown version with a black collar, gives a relaxed autumn look; cut every piece with the nap running in the same direction. For a lighter spring jacket, cotton or linen twill works well with a fine viscose lining.

For the lining, pick something smooth so the jacket slides on easily: viscose lining, Bemberg (cupro) or acetate breathe better than polyester. Pre-wash or steam the fabric the way you will care for the finished jacket, and test your interfacing and a buttonhole on a scrap first.

Sewing steps

Seam allowance 1 cm (3/8″) unless stated otherwise. Sew with right sides together and press after every seam.

1. Interfacing. Fuse interfacing to the center front (2), side front (3), center back (4), side back (6), both neck facings (8, 9) and both collar pieces (10). Let them cool flat, and finish the edges of the main pieces if your fabric frays.
2. Patch pockets. Run long stitches around the curved edges of each pocket (11). Fold the 6 cm top hem to the outside, stitch the ends and trim. Turn it right side out, ease in the curves with the threads and press. Topstitch the hem, then topstitch the pockets on the side fronts along the sides and bottom, reinforcing the top corners.
3. Front princess seams. Sew the side fronts (3) to the center fronts (2), matching notches and clipping the curves. Press open over a tailor’s ham and staystitch the front neckline.
4. Back princess seams. Sew the side backs (6) to the center backs (4) the same way, press open and staystitch the back neckline.
5. Center back seam. Sew the two backs together from the neckline to the hem and press open.
6. Shoulders and sides. Sew the front to the back at the shoulders, then at the side seams from the armhole down to the hem. Press open.
7. Collar. Sew the two collar pieces together around the outer edge and the short ends, leaving the neck edge open. Trim, turn, press, then baste both neck edges to the jacket neckline, matching the center back and shoulder notches.
8. Sleeves. Sew the upper (12) and lower sleeves (13) together along the back seam, pivoting at the top of the vent, then sew the front seam. Easestitch the cap, set the sleeve into the armhole matching the notches and the shoulder seam, and stitch. Hand-tack the shoulder pads.
9. Lining and facings. On the front lining (1), baste the small fold, then sew the front neck facing (8) to it. Form the ease pleat on the center back lining (5), sew on the side back linings (7) and the back neck facing (9). Sew the lining shoulders and sides, then the lining sleeves (14, 15) and set them in.
10. Join lining and jacket. Pin the lining to the jacket, collar sandwiched between, and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim, clip, understitch the facing up to the top button, turn and press.
11. Sleeve hems and vents. Turn up the 3 cm sleeve hems and fold the vent extensions. Sew the sleeve lining to the hem allowance through the open lower edge of the jacket, slipstitch it along the vent, and leave a small ease fold.
12. Jacket hem. Turn up the 3 cm hem and sew it with a blind hem stitch. Slipstitch the facings at the hem, then slipstitch the lining fold 1.5 cm above the finished hem so it falls into an ease fold.
13. Buttonholes and buttons. Make 6 buttonholes on the right front and sew the 6 buttons on the left front with a thread shank. Add 3 buttonholes and buttons on each sleeve vent, then give the jacket a final press under a cloth.

Tips and common mistakes

Smooth princess seams. Clip the concave curve almost to the stitching before you pin, then press the seam open over a tailor’s ham, never flat on the board.

No puckers in the sleeve cap. Keep all the ease between the circles and pull the threads gently before you pin. Sew with the sleeve on top so you can see and spread the fullness.

Sharp collar points. Trim the corners close to the stitching and push them out gently with a point turner after turning.

Lining that does not pull. Leave the small ease folds at the sleeve and jacket hems: they give the lining the room it needs when you move.

How to style the Princess Seam Jacket

Office: buttoned up with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers.

Weekend: with straight jeans, a striped tee and loafers.

Autumn: open over a knit dress, like our square neck midi dress, with ankle boots.

More jackets to sew: for a sharper tailored look, try our fitted blazer sewing pattern, or the cropped zip jacket sewing pattern and the quilted hooded jacket sewing pattern for casual days.

Care

Wool and wool blends: dry clean, or air and steam between wears. Cotton, linen twill and corduroy: wash cool on a gentle cycle, line dry and press under a cloth.

Questions

Happy sewing!

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