Fitted Blazer Sewing Pattern – Free PDF

This is a fitted, hip-length blazer with a classic notched collar and wide lapels, a five-button front and two slanted welt pockets. Princess seams on the front and back, waist darts and a centre back seam give it a close, flattering shape, and it is fully lined with a bagged lining so every seam is hidden inside. Wear it over a pencil skirt for the office, or open over a fine knit with jeans.

This free fitted blazer sewing pattern is for the sewist who is ready for a proper tailored jacket. There is more going on than in a simple cardigan jacket: welt pockets, a notched collar and a bagged lining. But everything is explained step by step, with a picture for each tricky moment, and the finished result looks like something from a shop rather than a home make. The shape comes from princess seams that run from the armhole down to the hem, plus a pair of fish-eye darts at the waist, so the blazer follows your body without feeling tight. It is drafted for 1 cm (3/8″) shoulder pads, which give a clean, sharp shoulder line without any bulk.

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1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance · 4 cm (1 5/8″) jacket and sleeve hems included

Printable sewing tutorial

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Get the full printable tutorial for the Fitted Blazer: detailed step-by-step sewing instructions with clear illustrations, line sketches, a sizing guide and the list of materials you need.

• Illustrated diagrams for every step, from the welt pockets to the bagged lining
• Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts per size
• Video guides for the key techniques, with links and QR codes
• Printable PDF, instant download

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Design details and fit of the fitted blazer

This is a close-fitting, fully lined blazer that ends at the hip. It has about 12 cm of ease at the bust, which is enough to move comfortably and to wear a blouse or a fine knit underneath. If you plan to wear a thick jumper under it, or you are using a heavy coating or boiled wool, size up by one.

The shaping is a mix of seams and darts. Princess seams run from the armhole on the front and the back, the centre fronts have long fish-eye waist darts, and a centre back seam gives a close fit across the back. The notched collar is cut in two parts (an upper and a lower collar) with a roll line marked on the pattern, so the lapels fold back neatly. Two slanted single welt pockets finish the front, and five 1.5 cm buttons close it.

The pattern is drafted for a height of 167.75 cm (5′6″). To lengthen or shorten the jacket, change every body piece (fronts, backs, facings and linings) by the same amount between the waist and the hem, and change the sleeve and sleeve lining halfway between the elbow and the hem.

Difficulty and sewing time

The blazer is rated intermediate. If you have already sewn darts, a set-in sleeve and a simple lined jacket, nothing will be a surprise; if not, take your time with the two parts that need patience: the welt pockets, and the collar and lapel corners. Allow a weekend or two for the whole jacket, plus an evening for printing, taping and cutting. Try one welt pocket on a scrap of your fabric with interfacing before you touch the real pieces.

Tools you will want: a sewing machine with a buttonhole foot, an iron and a pressing cloth, a tailor’s ham for the curved princess seams, chalk or tailor’s tacks, clips or pins, a point turner and a hand-sewing needle.

Sizing guide

Drafted for a height of 167.75 cm (5′6″). The blazer has about 12–13 cm of ease at the bust. Choose your size by bust; if you are between sizes, take the larger one. Not sure? Read how to choose your size.

Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

Finished garment measurements

Bust, waist, hips and hem width are full circumferences of the finished jacket, buttoned. Back length is measured at centre back from the neck seam to the hem. Upper arm and sleeve opening are the full width of the sleeve.

Fabric requirements

All pattern pieces laid out without a nap, plus about 8 % for straightening and shrinkage, rounded up.

Common fit adjustments

Sleeve length. Measure from your shoulder point to your wrist and compare it with the finished sleeve length above. Change the sleeve and the sleeve lining halfway between the elbow and the hem, so the sleeve cap stays untouched.

Body length. Make the change on every body piece (fronts, backs, facings and linings) by the same amount, between the waist and the hem. Move the welt pocket boxes if you shorten by more than 2–3 cm, so the pockets still sit where your hands fall.

Bust and waist. Choose by bust, as explained in how to choose your sewing pattern size. Make a quick muslin of the body first if you need a full bust adjustment: the princess seams are the cleanest place to add it. Measure carefully first with how to take your body measurements.

Shoulders. The blazer is drafted for 1 cm (3/8″) shoulder pads. If you prefer to leave them out, the shoulder will sit slightly softer; if your shoulders slope, the pads help the sleeve hang cleanly.

Sewing notes

Choosing fabric for the fitted blazer

A blazer lives or dies by its fabric. Wool flannel, wool crepe and soft textured wools such as a light tweed or bouclé are the best choices: they take a press beautifully, hold the lapel roll, and are forgiving when you ease the sleeve cap. A wool-blend suiting gives a sharper, more formal result, while a cotton or linen-blend suiting makes a lighter jacket for spring and early autumn.

Avoid very thin, drapey fabrics, which will not hold the collar and lapel shape, and very thick coatings, which build up bulk in the welt pockets and at the lapel corners. Stretch knits are not suitable: the pattern is drafted for woven fabrics.

For the lining, choose something smooth that slides over your clothes: cupro (Bemberg), viscose or rayon twill, acetate or a good polyester lining. Pre-wash or steam your main fabric the way you plan to care for the finished blazer, and always test the interfacing on a scrap first. Check the bond, the shine and the stitch length (2.5 mm) before you fuse every piece.

Sewing steps

Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8″) unless stated otherwise. RS means right side, WS wrong side. Sew with right sides together unless a step says otherwise.

1. Prepare the pieces. Fuse interfacing to the WS of the center fronts, side fronts, center backs, side backs, neck facings, collars and welts. Transfer all markings, and staystitch the neck edge of the center fronts and center backs 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the edge.
2. Waist darts. Fold each center front dart RS together through its center, matching the dart lines. Stitch from point to point, tapering to nothing, and tie the threads. Clip the fold at the widest point and press the dart toward the center front over a ham.
3. Slanted welt pockets. Make the welts, then stitch a welt and an outer pocket bag to each side front along the marked box. Cut between the lines, clip into the corners, push the bags to the WS, sew the inner pocket bag, and stitch the pocket bags together. Edgestitch or slip stitch the welt ends.
4. Front princess seams. Pin each side front to a center front, matching the notches. Clip the concave edge, stitch, finish the seam allowances separately and press open over a ham.
5. Back seams. Stitch the center back seam, then add a side back to each side, matching the notches. Clip the curves, finish and press open.
6. Shoulders and side seams. Stitch the shoulder seams, easing the back shoulder slightly to fit the front, then stitch the side seams from underarm to hem. Finish and press open.
7. Lower collar. Pin the lower collar to the jacket neckline, matching the center and the shoulder notches. Stitch exactly from mark to mark, backstitch at both marks, clip the curve and press open.
8. Sleeves. Sew two rows of long stitches on the sleeve cap between the EASE marks, stitch the underarm seam, then set the sleeve into the armhole. Pull up the easing threads so the cap fits smoothly with no tucks, stitch, and press the seam allowance toward the sleeve without flattening the cap.
9. Front lining and facing. Fold the small FOLD tuck on each front lining and baste it. Stitch each front neck facing to the front edge of the front lining, stopping 1.5 cm above the lower edge, and press toward the lining.
10. Back lining. Make the ease pleat on the center back lining, then stitch a side back lining to each side. Stitch the back neck facing to the top of the back lining and press toward the lining.
11. Assemble the lining. Join the front linings to the back lining at the shoulders and side seams. Stitch the sleeve lining underarm seams, leaving a 20 cm (8″) opening in the middle of one of them, then ease and set the sleeve linings into the lining armholes.
12. Upper collar. Pin the upper collar to the neck edge of the lining unit, matching the centers and notches. Stitch exactly from mark to mark, clip the curve and press open.
13. Bag the front edges and collar. Lay the lining unit on the jacket RS together. Stitch the front edge up to the mark on the lapel, then around the collar and down the second front edge. Trim and grade the seam allowances, cut across the corners and clip into the mark at each collar notch.
14. Hems. Stitch the lower edge of each facing to the lower edge of the center front, turn the corner, then turn up the 4 cm (1 5/8″) jacket hem and press. Stitch the lining to the raw edge of the hem; the extra length forms a soft fold. Do the same for the sleeves through the opening.
15. Turn and finish. Turn the jacket right side out through the sleeve lining opening, push out the collar and lapel corners and press. Tack in the shoulder pads, close the opening, then press the lapels and collar along the roll line over a ham.
16. Buttonholes and buttons. Make 5 horizontal buttonholes on the right front at the markings, sized for 1.5 cm (5/8″) buttons. Lap the right front over the left, mark the button positions, sew the buttons on and give the blazer a final press.

Tips and common mistakes

Test the welt pocket first. Make one on a scrap of your fabric with interfacing. If the box is hard to see on your fabric, baste the lines through to the right side with a contrast thread, and stitch exactly from end mark to end mark.

Press as you go. Press every seam before crossing it with another one. Use a pressing cloth and the wool setting with steam, and a tailor’s ham for the curved princess seams. Never press over pins, and let each section cool on the board before you move it so the shape sets.

Stop exactly at the marks on the collar. The collar seams start and stop at the marks where the lapel begins. If you stitch past them, the lapel will not turn neatly, so backstitch at both marks and clip right up to the stitching.

Ease the sleeve cap, don’t pleat it. Pull the easing threads gently and spread the fullness evenly over the cap, so it sits smoothly without tucks. Steam the cap before you stitch.

How to style the fitted blazer

Office day: with a pencil skirt or tailored trousers. The wide leg pants sewing pattern makes a matching set in the same fabric.

Weekend: open over a fine knit or a silk camisole, with jeans.

Cooler weather: belted over a midi dress. If you would like a simpler fitted jacket without lapels or lining, try the button front jacket sewing pattern next.

Questions

Happy sewing!

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