Hooded Coat Sewing Pattern – Free PDF

This is a fitted, hip-to-knee-length coat with a hood. Curved princess seams run from the armholes to the hem on the front and the back, shaping the waist and flowing into a soft A-line skirt. A long exposed zipper closes the front, two patch pockets sit over the princess seams, and the hood has a neat topstitched facing. It is unlined, so it is quicker to make than most coats.

This free hooded coat sewing pattern is for the sewist who wants a proper winter coat without the work of a lined tailored one. The shape is simple but flattering: princess seams and a centre back seam give a close fit through the body, and the A-line skirt gives room to walk. The exposed metal zipper is the style feature, and the hood is made in two pieces with a facing, so it sits neatly whether it is up or down. Everything is explained step by step, and the trickiest parts (the zipper and the hood) are called out so you can read them before you start.

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1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance · 2 cm (3/4″) coat and sleeve hems included

Printable sewing tutorial

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Get the full printable tutorial for the Hooded Coat: detailed step-by-step sewing instructions with clear illustrations, line sketches, a sizing guide and the list of materials you need.

• Illustrated diagrams for every step, from the patch pockets to the hood facing
• Size charts, finished measurements and fabric amounts per size
• Video guides for the key techniques, with links and QR codes
• Printable PDF, instant download

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Design details and fit of the hooded coat

This is a fitted, unlined coat with about 7–8 cm (2 3/4–3 1/8″) of ease at the waist, so it follows the body closely. The centre back length is about 97–99 cm (38–39″) depending on the size, which puts the hem between hip and knee. If your coating is thick (boiled wool, heavy melton, more than about 3 mm / 1/8″) or you will wear the coat over a warm sweater, choose one size up.

The shaping comes from the seams: princess seams from the armholes to the hem on the front and the back, a centre back seam, and set-in sleeves. A long exposed separating zipper with 7 mm teeth closes the front from hem to neckline, and two patch pockets with rounded corners sit over the front princess seams. The two-piece hood has a 2.5 cm (1″) topstitched facing, and a neck facing strip finishes the neckline inside.

The pattern is drafted for a height of 167.75 cm (5′6″). To lengthen or shorten the coat, add or remove the same amount at the hem of all eight body pieces, keeping the A-line angle, then adjust the sleeve at its hem. Change the zipper length by the same amount.

Difficulty and sewing time

The coat is rated intermediate, and a confident beginner can make it. There are no buttonholes, no lining and no collar to set; the parts that need patience are the exposed front zipper and the hood and neckline. Allow a weekend for the whole coat, plus an evening for printing, taping and cutting. Read the zipper and hood steps through once before you sew them.

Tools you will want: a walking foot (or reduced presser-foot pressure), a size 90–100 needle, a zipper foot, clips rather than pins for thick wool, an iron and a pressing cloth, a tailor’s ham for the curved princess seams, and a wooden clapper if you have one.

Sizing guide

Drafted for a height of 167.75 cm (5′6″). The coat is fitted, with about 7–8 cm of ease at the waist. Choose your size by bust; if you are between sizes, take the larger one. Not sure? Read how to choose your size.

Letter sizes: 00/0 = XXS · 2/4 = XS · 6/8 = S · 10/12 = M · 14 = L · 16 = XL · 18 = XXL · 20 = 3XL · 22 = 4XL

Body measurements

Finished garment measurements

Waist, low hip and hem sweep are full circumferences of the finished coat. CB length is measured at centre back from the neckline seam to the hem. Upper arm and sleeve hem are the full width around the sleeve.

Fabric requirements

All nine pattern pieces laid out without a fold, kept on the grain, plus 8 % for shrinkage and straightening. For a fabric with a nap or one-way texture, add about 10 %.

Common fit adjustments

Body length. Add or remove the same amount at the hem of all eight body pieces, keeping the A-line angle, and change the zipper length by the same amount.

Sleeve length. Measure from your shoulder point to your wrist and compare it with the finished sleeve length above. Change the sleeve at its hem.

Bust and waist. Choose by bust, as explained in how to choose your sewing pattern size, and measure carefully first with how to take your body measurements. The princess seams are the cleanest place to add a full bust adjustment if you need one; try a quick muslin of the body first.

Sewing notes

Choosing fabric for the hooded coat

A coat like this needs a fabric with body. Wool or wool-blend coating is the classic choice: it presses well, holds the princess seams and the hood shape, and hides the topstitching. Boiled wool and melton are easy to sew because the edges do not fray, and a textured, bouclé-look coating gives a richer finish. Choose something medium to heavy, but not so bulky that the hood and the seams become hard to press.

Because the coat is unlined, every seam stays visible inside, so plan your seam finish. An overlocker is quickest; otherwise use zigzag or bound edges with bias binding. Press as you go: steam through a press cloth, then let each seam cool under a wooden clapper. Never press directly on the right side of the fabric, as it can flatten the texture and leave a shine.

Sewing steps

Seam allowance is 1 cm (3/8″) unless stated otherwise. RST means right sides together. Finish every seam allowance (overlock, zigzag or binding) as you go, and press each seam before crossing it with another.

1. Prepare the pieces. Transfer all markings. Staystitch the neckline of the center fronts and center backs 0.8 cm (5/16″) from the edge so it does not stretch. Optionally fuse stay tape along the front (ZIP) edge of both center fronts.
2. Front princess seams. RST, pin each side front to its center front, matching the notches and the waistline, then stitch. Clip into the curve over the bust where necessary, stopping 2 mm before the stitching. Finish the seam allowances separately and press open over a tailor’s ham.
3. Patch pockets. Sew a row of long machine stitches around the curved corners, 1.3 cm (1/2″) from the edge. Fold the 2 cm (3/4″) top hem to the outside, RST, stitch the ends at 1.5 cm (5/8″) and trim the corners. Turn the hem to the inside, press the sides and bottom under by 1.5 cm, pulling the threads to ease the curves, and topstitch the hem. Pin each pocket inside the placement lines over the princess seam, topstitch the sides and bottom, and reinforce the top corners.
4. Back seams. RST, stitch the two center backs together along the straight center back edge, from neckline to hem. Then stitch a side back to each center back, matching the notches, and clip the curves. Finish and press all seams open.
5. Shoulders. RST, pin the fronts to the back at the shoulders, matching the princess seams if they meet, and stitch. Finish and press open.
6. Side seams. RST, stitch the fronts to the back at the side seams, from the armhole down to the hem. Try the coat on, pinning the fronts together at center front, and adjust the side seams if needed. Finish and press open.
7. Sleeves. Sew two rows of long stitches on the sleeve cap between the dots, 0.7 cm and 0.4 cm from the edge, leaving long thread tails. Stitch the underarm seam, then slip the sleeve into the armhole RST, matching the cap notch to the shoulder seam and the underarm seam to the side seam. Pull the threads to ease the cap with no tucks, baste, check from the right side, then stitch with the sleeve on top. Press the seam allowances toward the sleeve.
8. Sleeve hems. Finish the lower edge of the sleeve, turn up the 2 cm (3/4″) hem to the wrong side and press. Catch-stitch the hem by hand, or topstitch 1.5 cm (5/8″) from the folded edge.
9. Front zipper. Press up the 2 cm coat hem and unfold it: the crease marks the bottom of the zipper. Check the zipper length against the front edge, from the hem crease to 1 cm below the neckline edge, and shorten it from the top if needed. Press the 1 cm seam allowance of each front (ZIP) edge to the wrong side. Place each zipper half under its front so the pressed edge sits right beside the teeth, with the teeth fully visible, and baste. Edgestitch close to each folded edge with a zipper foot, then sew a second row 6 mm (1/4″) away.
10. Hood and facing. RST, stitch the two hood pieces along the curved back edge, clip the curve and press open. Join the two facing strips at their short ends and press one long edge 1 cm to the wrong side. Stitch the other long edge to the hood front edge, grade the allowances and understitch them to the facing. Turn the facing to the inside, press, and topstitch 2.5 cm (1″) from the front edge. Baste the lower ends of hood and facing together at the neck edge.
11. Attach the hood. With the coat right side out, pin the hood to the neckline RST: the hood seam to the center back seam and the hood notches to the shoulder seams. The finished front edges of the hood meet the pressed front edges of the coat, right at the zipper teeth. Stitch through all layers, including the zipper tape ends, then grade the seam allowances and clip the curve.
12. Neck facing. Fold the neck facing in half to find its center. Inside the coat, lay it right side down on the hood side of the neckline seam, centered on the hood seam at center back, and pin toward the fronts. Turn each end under 1 cm so it stops just beside the zipper tape and stitch on the hood seam line through all layers. Press the facing down onto the coat, turn its free long edge under 1 cm and edgestitch it, then edgestitch the ends. Tack the zipper tape tops down by hand.
13. Hem and finish. Finish the lower edge of the coat, turn the 2 cm (3/4″) hem up along the crease over the zipper tape ends and press. At each front edge, fold the corner neatly over the zipper tape and slipstitch the short ends closed. Catch-stitch the hem by hand or topstitch it, then give the whole coat a final press with steam and a press cloth, from the inside.

Tips and common mistakes

Test on a scrap first. Sew and press a sample seam in your coating with a 3–3.5 mm stitch length, and try your seam finish. Hold the layers with clips rather than pins, and snip notches no deeper than 5 mm (3/16″).

Take your time with the zipper. Mark the hem crease first, so the bottom of the zipper sits exactly on it, and baste both halves before you stitch. Match the waistline and the pocket tops across the front so the two sides line up.

Grade and clip the curves. Trim the seam allowances to different widths and clip them at the hood, the neckline and the armholes, so they lie flat under the topstitching.

Ease the sleeve cap, don’t pleat it. Pull the easing threads gently and spread the fullness evenly. Steam the cap over a ham to shrink any extra fullness before you stitch.

How to style the hooded coat

Everyday: over wide-leg trousers and a fine-knit turtleneck, with ankle boots. The wide leg pants sewing pattern is a good match.

Dressed up: with a midi skirt and knee boots for a long, A-line silhouette.

Weather proof: hood up on rainy days, or zipper half open with a silk scarf on cooler ones. If you would like a tailored, lined jacket for milder days, try the fitted blazer sewing pattern next.

Questions

Happy sewing!

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